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Rowing Machine

Rowing Machine Buying Guide: How to Choose the Best One

June 18, 2026

A good rowing machine buying guide starts with one number: a quality rower runs anywhere from $400 for a used hydraulic model to $2,500 for a connected machine with a screen, and the resistance type you pick matters more than the price tag. Get that one decision right and the rest of the purchase falls into place. Get it wrong and you end up with a noisy, cramped machine that lives under the bed by February.

I help people buy and sell used fitness equipment for a living, and I’ve watched hundreds of rowers move through homes. Rowing machines are one of the most returned, resold, and regretted pieces of cardio gear out there, mostly because people buy on price instead of on fit. So this rowing machine buying guide skips the fluff and walks through what actually decides whether you keep using the thing: resistance type, footprint, build quality, the screen question, and what to inspect if you buy one used.

What kind of rowing machine should you buy?

The best rowing machine for most people is an air or magnetic rower with a solid steel and aluminum frame. Those two resistance types give you the smoothest, most natural stroke and the longest service life. Water rowers feel great and look beautiful but cost more and need occasional maintenance. Hydraulic rowers are cheap and compact but wear out fast and feel choppy.

Here’s the thing most buyers miss. The resistance type is not just about feel. It decides how loud the machine is, how much room it takes, whether it folds, and how long it lasts. A rowing machine buying guide that doesn’t start with resistance is wasting your time. So start there.

The four resistance types compared

Resistance type Feel Noise Best for Typical price (new)
Air Dynamic, harder the faster you pull Loud (fan whoosh) Serious training, intervals $900 to $1,400
Magnetic Smooth, quiet, fixed levels Very quiet Apartments, early mornings $400 to $1,200
Water Natural, swooshing, fluid Moderate (water sound) Feel and aesthetics $1,000 to $2,200
Hydraulic Choppy, piston-based Quiet Tight budgets, small spaces $150 to $400

How much space does a rowing machine need?

rowing machine buying guide - rower stored upright vertically to save space

Plan for a footprint of about 8 feet long by 2 feet wide while you’re rowing, plus a foot of clearance behind you. That’s the single most overlooked spec in any rowing machine buying guide. A rower is long. Longer than a treadmill belt and longer than most people picture.

If you’re tight on room, you have two outs. Some air and water rowers stand vertically for storage, which shrinks the floor footprint to about 2 feet by 2 feet. And many magnetic rowers fold at the hinge, cutting the stored length roughly in half. I’ve picked up plenty of folding rowers from buyers who swore they measured and still couldn’t get the thing to fit. Measure the rowing length, not the folded length. That’s the one that bites you.

Air vs magnetic vs water: which rower wins?

For most home buyers, magnetic wins on livability and air wins on training quality. If you live in an apartment or row early while others sleep, a magnetic rower is the safe call because it’s nearly silent. If you want a rower that pushes back harder the harder you pull, the way real on-water rowing does, an air rower is the honest answer. Water rowers split the difference and add a sound a lot of people find genuinely relaxing.

One position I’ll take plainly. Skip hydraulic rowers unless your budget is truly fixed under $200. The pistons fade, the stroke feels uneven, and resale value is close to zero. I’ve watched hydraulic rowers sit unsold for months because nobody wants them secondhand. Air, magnetic, and water rowers hold value far better.

Should you buy a rowing machine with a screen?

A connected rower with a built-in screen and guided classes is worth it only if you’ll actually use the subscription. The hardware on a screen-equipped rower like a Hydrow or a Peloton Row is excellent, but you’re paying a few hundred dollars upfront and a monthly fee for the content. If group classes and a leaderboard keep you rowing, that’s money well spent. If you just want to row while watching your own shows, a standard rower with a phone holder does the same job for half the price.

A serious connected rower costs $1,500 to $2,500 new before the subscription. A capable non-connected air or magnetic rower costs $500 to $1,200. That gap buys a lot of months of any streaming app you already own. Decide honestly whether you’re buying a coach or buying a screen.

What to look for in build quality

rowing machine buying guide - close-up of rower seat rail and footplate build quality

The frame is where a rowing machine lives or dies. Look for a steel or aluminum rail rather than plastic, a seat that glides without rattling, and a footplate that adjusts and locks firmly. Cheap rowers fail at the seat rollers and the footplate straps first. Those are the parts that take the load every single stroke.

A few specifics worth checking before you commit:

  • Weight capacity: Most quality rowers handle 250 to 375 pounds. Buy above your weight with margin.
  • Inseam and height limits: Taller users need a longer rail. Anyone over 6’2″ should confirm the rail length before buying.
  • Seat comfort: A contoured seat matters more than you’d think on rows over 20 minutes.
  • Monitor: Even a basic rower should track strokes per minute, distance, time, and a 500-meter split.

New vs used: where the value is

rowing machine buying guide - used rower wrapped in moving blankets in a delivery truck

A used rowing machine is one of the best values in home fitness, because rowers get bought with good intentions and abandoned fast. That means the secondhand market is full of machines with very little real use on them. I see near-new air and water rowers sell for 40 to 60 percent off retail constantly, simply because the original buyer rowed twice and gave up.

The catch with buying used privately is the same catch as any large item off Facebook Marketplace: you’re hauling an 8-foot machine, you can’t test it properly in a stranger’s garage, and there’s no recourse if the monitor is dead. That’s the exact problem Commonplace was built to fix. Our drivers pick the rower up, it goes through a 30 to 50 point inspection, it gets delivered to your door, and you get 60 minutes to actually row on it before you pay a cent. If it rattles or the resistance is shot, you don’t keep it. Buyer and seller never have to meet in a parking lot. You can see how that whole process works here.

Best rowing machine by use case

Here’s the short version, ranked by who you are. Match yourself to the line and you’ve basically made the decision.

  1. Apartment dweller who rows early: Magnetic rower. Near-silent, often folds, won’t wake the building.
  2. Serious trainer chasing fitness: Air rower. The dynamic resistance scales with effort and rewards hard intervals.
  3. Buyer who loves the feel of real rowing: Water rower. The fluid stroke and sound are the closest thing to being on the water.
  4. Class-and-leaderboard person: Connected rower with a screen, but only if you’ll keep the subscription active.
  5. Tight budget, small space, occasional use: A clean used magnetic rower beats a new hydraulic one every time.
  6. Tall or heavier user: Air or commercial-grade rail with a long track and 375-pound capacity.
  7. Flipper or reseller: Air and water rowers from known names hold value best. Hydraulic does not.

If you want to compare specific connected models head to head, our Hydrow vs Peloton Row breakdown goes deep on the two most popular screen-equipped rowers. And if you’ve decided used is the way, the best used rowing machine guide covers the five models that actually hold up.

What to inspect on a used rowing machine

Inspect the seat glide, the resistance mechanism, and the monitor before paying for any used rower. Sit down and take 10 hard strokes. The seat should roll silent and smooth with no catching. On an air rower, the fan should spin freely and build resistance as you pull faster. On a water rower, check the tank for cloudiness or leaks. On a magnetic rower, cycle through every resistance level and confirm each one actually changes the feel.

Then check the monitor powers on and counts strokes. A dead monitor is a common and annoying problem on older rowers, and replacements aren’t always available. When a rower comes through Commonplace, that inspection is already done before it reaches you, and the rowing machines in our marketplace come with a 60-day warranty on top of the in-home test. That’s a different level of safety than meeting someone behind a gas station with cash.

Frequently asked questions

Is a rowing machine a good workout?

Yes, and it’s one of the most complete. Rowing works your legs, back, core, and arms in a single stroke while raising your heart rate, so it builds strength and cardio at the same time. It’s also low impact, which makes it easier on knees and hips than running.

What is the most reliable type of rowing machine?

Air and magnetic rowers are the most reliable for home use. Air rowers have very few parts to fail and last for years of heavy use. Magnetic rowers are nearly maintenance-free and silent. Water rowers are reliable too but need occasional water treatment and the seal can eventually wear.

How much should I spend on a rowing machine?

Plan on $500 to $1,200 for a capable new air or magnetic rower, or $1,500 to $2,500 for a connected model with a screen. Buying used is where the real savings are, with lightly-used rowers commonly selling at 40 to 60 percent off retail.

Do rowing machines fold up for storage?

Many do. Most magnetic rowers fold at a center hinge to cut the stored length roughly in half, and many air and water rowers stand upright vertically against a wall. Hydraulic rowers are the most compact but the weakest performers.

Is it worth buying a used rowing machine?

Usually yes. Rowers get abandoned faster than almost any other piece of fitness gear, so the used market is full of barely-used machines at steep discounts. The key is inspecting the seat, resistance, and monitor first, or buying through a marketplace that inspects and warranties the machine for you.

The bottom line

Pick your resistance type first, measure your real rowing footprint second, and be honest about whether you’re paying for a coach or just a screen. Do that and you’ll buy a rower you actually keep using. Air for training, magnetic for quiet apartments, water for feel, and skip hydraulic unless the budget forces your hand.

If you’re ready to buy, you can browse inspected used rowing machines on Commonplace with a 60-day warranty and a 60-minute in-home test before you pay. And if you’ve got a rower gathering dust, you can list it and let our drivers handle the pickup so you never have to wrestle an 8-foot machine into a stranger’s truck. Over 100 Google reviews say it beats the parking-lot handoff every time.

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